Yay for the 1970s! I was recently looking through a 1977 cookbook on Hors d’Oeuvres and Appetizers and was immediately attracted to the photo of Vol-au-Vents. These are small, flaky pastries that are so light, they can ‘fly in the wind’- which is the translation of the French term, Vol-au-Vent.
I love their billowy quality and the fact that they can be filled with just about any filling- savory or sweet. For my recipe, I have used the classic chicken and mushroom filling with a creamy white sauce- dubbed Vol-au-vent à la reine in French. Yes, these pastries may seem to be a little outdated, but I say let’s bring back the 1970s!
For this recipe, you’ll need several sheets of puff pastry. First, I tried using ready-made frozen puff pastry, which is a real time saver. However, while I found that the pastry was light and flaky, it did not rise very much in the oven. Then I decided to make puff pastry from scratch and what a difference- the dough rose much higher in the oven and the quality was delicious- it was almost like eating croissant dough! However, don’t let me scare you off- you can certainly get a good result using the frozen pastry.
For the filling, I have not cut any corners and you’ll get some extra flavors by using the chicken poaching liquid to help make the creamy white sauce. The technique for cutting out the shapes for the vol-au-vents is not difficult and the best result is made by using special cookie cutters with the crinkle edges.
To cut out and shape the dough:
First, roll out one puff pastry sheet and cut out six discs using a ‘crinkle cutter’ measuring 3 inches in diameter (or you could use a smaller cutter, if desired). Three of the discs will be used as the base for your vol-au-vents and the other three will provide you with rings to place on top of each pastry.
Roll out dough and cut out six discs using a 3-inch cutter
Next, use a smaller 2-inch cutter to cut out the centers of three of the discs: this will provide you with three outer rings to place on top of each pastry. Retain the round centers for decoration later.
Place the three ‘base discs’ on a tray lined with parchment paper and brush with egg wash. Cut out the rings made with the smaller cutter and place them on top of the bases- brush the tops of the rings with egg wash.
Prick the bottom of each pastry with the tines of a fork to help prevent the centers from rising in the oven. Place all pastries in oven, including the small round centers:
Repeat the whole procedure with your second sheet of puff pastry, yielding about six vol-au-vents in total. Bake for about 20 minutes until the pastries have risen and turned golden brown.
Vol-au-vents straight out of oven
Add the filling and garnish with parsley.
To poach the chicken: Place the chicken breasts, ½ onion, carrot, celery stick and several black peppercorns in a medium saucepan and cover the ingredients with water. Bring the water to a soft boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes until the chicken is cooked through; the chicken meat should no longer be pink inside and the flesh should be tender, not hard. Remove chicken from liquid and let cool; dice into small cubes. Pass the cooking liquid through a strainer, then skim off some fat from the surface of the broth; set aside. To make the mushroom filling, dice the mushroom into small cubes, add them to a small saucepan along with the water, lemon juice and several slices of butter. Cook for several minutes until tender and set aside. To make the roux, melt the butter in a separate saucepan over medium heat; add the flour and whisk to make a paste. Let cool for several minutes, then whisk in the 1 cup of reserved poaching liquid. Whisk until the sauce thickens. Add the mushroom mixture, including a little liquid from cooking juice. Add ½ of the diced chicken pieces and add salt and pepper to taste (the remaining chicken will be added directly to the vol-au-vents later). When all flavors have blended together, add 2 tbsps. thickened cream to the sauce; set aside. To assemble the puff pastry: Pre-heat the oven to 400 F (200 C). Place one puff pastry sheet on a lightly floured cutting board or work bench and cut out 6 round discs using a 3-inch wide round ‘crinkle’ cutter (3 of the discs will form the base of your vol-au-vents and the remaining 3 will provide the rings to go on top of the bases). Transfer three of the discs to a baking tray lined with parchment paper and brush them lightly with egg wash (1 egg whisked with a little water). Inside the remaining three discs, cut out each center using a smaller 2 inch crinkle cutter, leaving an outer ring. Place a ring on top of each base and brush the top of the rings with the egg wash, being careful not to brush the sides of the pastries (this may prevent the pastries from rising properly). Prick the centers of each vol-au-vent with a fork, to prevent the centers from rising. Place the remaining ‘inner circles’ from the cut-out pastries on the baking tray, along with the vol-au-vents and place in the fridge for at least 20 minutes (this will help to prevent shrinkage of the pastries when they bake). Remove from fridge and bake for about 15-20 minutes until the pastries rise and turn golden brown. Lower the oven temperature if the pastries appear to be burning. Final assembly: add a few diced chicken pieces into the bottom of each vol-au-vent, top with some of the mushroom/chicken sauce and sprinkle some chopped parsley on top. Best served warm. You can use frozen puff pastry sheets, however in my opinion, using puff pastry made from scratch gives a richer, flakier taste.Vol-au-vents with Chicken and Mushrooms
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8 Comments
John / Kitchen Riffs
August 3, 2018 at 12:46 amGosh, I haven’t had this dish in years! Probably not since the 70s. Maybe 80s. 🙂 Such a fun and good dish, too. Now you’ve got me wanting to make it! Good job with this — thanks.
Fran Flint
August 3, 2018 at 7:37 amThanks John- making these is well-worth the effort!
Mimi
August 3, 2018 at 6:40 amwow. this brought back memories. I used to request these, but with a creamed brains filling for my birthday growing up. I never thought about actually making the pastry from scratch! You’re so talented!
Fran Flint
August 3, 2018 at 7:35 amHi Mimi- vol-au-vents served with creamed brains? That was certainly adventurous! Thanks so much for your comment!
Mae
August 5, 2018 at 6:13 pmCrazy question: why do you leave so much space between the cut-out pastry? I always try to cut them as close as I can to minimize re-rolled pastry dough. Am I missing something?
And yes, it does seem as if there were some good ideas in previous decades that have been lost or maybe should be revived, doesn’t it?
best… mae at maefood.blogspot.com
Fran Flint
August 5, 2018 at 7:54 pmThanks Mae- I didn’t even notice that about the spacing of my vol-au-vents! I suppose I didn’t space them closer together was that I knew I still couldn’t fit another whole vol-au-vent into the sheet of pastry (although I could squeeze some more little ‘decoration’s in). Next time, I’ll try and place them closer together!
David
August 5, 2018 at 11:19 pmThe 70s were so good to us in so many ways! Maybe not fashion… but the food was fab! I agree – for this, it is definitely best to make your own puff pastry. Will be making this soon -but won’t be wearing my disco togs while I do…
Kathy @ Beyond the Chicken Coop
August 11, 2018 at 1:43 amI love this! Some recipes from the 70s are just made to be left alone!!! This however, is one well worth recreating. It looks simply beautiful and would be quite impressive to serve to family or guests.