I finally arrived in Paris to start my 10-week course in Advanced Cuisine (Superior Cuisine’) at Le Cordon Bleu Paris. God, it’s a long ways from South Australia, with 20 hours of flying and a 6-hour layover in Singapore. Needless to say, I’m a little nervous since it’s been two years since I completed the Intermediate Cuisine course here. Most of the other students in my class have already been cooking together for the past 6 months, so I hope I fit in alright!
My Paris apartment is located in the Latin Quarter in the 5th arrondisement, an area which also includes the Pantheon and the Luxembourg Gardens. Every morning I take an early morning walk up the Rue Mouffetard, an ancient Roman street with an open air market and lots of food shops. During my walk, I descend the hill towards the Seine River and behold the wonderful site of the Notre Dame Cathedral, a 20-minute walk from where I live.
The view from my Latin Quarter Paris apartment Rue Mouffetard in the early morning Notre Dama Cathedral- almost 1,000 years old! But I’m here in Paris to cook and eat, right? One of my favourite Paris markets is the one located at Boulevard Raspail, open three times a week. There are lots of fresh fruits and vegetables with an organic market on Sundays. This market is well-known for the vendor with potato pancakes, which is still on my ‘must taste’ list!
An added bonus is you can easily walk from this market to Gertrude Stein’s former apartment at 27 rue de Fleurus, where she lived with Alice B. Toklas for almost 40 years. As I walked past her apartment recently, the door to the lobby was open due to renovations. I slipped inside the lobby ‘sight unseen’ and was honored to be able to walk in the same hallowed halls as Picasso and Ernest Hemingway, who regularly visited Gertrude to discuss art and writing.
Gertrude Stein’s former apartment at 27 rue des Fleurus
Nearby Gertrude Stein’s apartment is the well-known bread bakery, Poilâne, located at 8 rue du Cherche-Midi. Their signature sour dough bread is baked in a wood-burning oven and is made of 4 ingredients: sourdough, stoneground wheat flour, water and sea salt from Guérande. It carries the signature mark P for Poilâne and each loaf weighs about 4lbs or 1.9kg. That’s a lot of bread and should last at least one week!
Poilâne Bread Bakery at 8 rue du Cherche-Midi
Signature Poilâne bread baked with letter ‘P’
Walking back from the Poilâne bakery to my apartment, I passed by the Sadahuru Aoki patisserie on the Boulevard de Port Royal, founded 15 years ago by the Japanese pâtissier of the same name. Aoki’s philosophy to baking is simply stated:
“Creating something delicious. To achieve this goal, it is essential to maintain simplicity.” – Aoki
And I certainly knew where he was coming from. I entered his store and bought one of his delights called Sensuelle. consisting of layers of ganache and flavoured mousse set on a base of textured biscuit and topped with a miniature macaron.
Sadahuru Aoki Patisserie- Paris
Layered Pastries topped with a mini Macaron
With my belly full after visiting several of Paris’ culinary delights, it was back to my Paris apartment to rest before starting my course in Superior Cuisine at Le Cordon Bleu Paris. Please follow my blog as I present photos and recipes from my 10-week course at LCB!
6 Comments
John@Kitchen Riffs
June 20, 2014 at 2:21 amFun stuff! What a treat to tread Stein’s hallowed halls! Look forward to hearing all about your Paris cooking and eating adventures.
Fran
June 20, 2014 at 2:30 pmThanks John. Despite all the walking I’m doing in Paris, I’ve put on a little weight. So today, I’ll have to cut out my ration of patisserie!
Daniela
June 20, 2014 at 6:48 amOh Fran, so happy for you!
What a great culinary adventure and a wonderful place to stay.
Paris is such a charming, interesting city and your apartment has a wonderful location.
Fran
June 20, 2014 at 2:35 pmThanks so much, Daniela. Yes, it seems like there is a bakery on every corner in Paris with glorious food!
Joanne T Ferguson
June 20, 2014 at 5:48 pmG’day and congrats on the safe travels Fran!
Having experience France’s wonder pastries, I don’t think when I was there I could go past a patisserie! lol
Cheers! Keep walking and good luck with you course!
Cheers! Joanne
Gourmet Getaways
June 21, 2014 at 11:09 pmI enjoy walking to markets and bakeries. It becomes more of a pleasure. I like the pastry line!!!
Julie
Gourmet Getaways