I grew up six miles from the border town of Tijuana, gateway to beautiful Baja California. My family spent a lot of time camping in Ensenada, home of the famous Fish Taco. Here, the fish is typically covered in a tempura-like batter, fried in oil or lard, then nestled in a tortilla with a creamy white sauce and shredded cabbage. I had forgotten how delicious the fish taco was, until I saw the Netflix series Taco Chronicles, featuring the history and culture of thirteen types of Mexican tacos. The passion and love that Mexicans have for tacos is a prominent theme of this series, as one vendor says, “Any taco can take you to beautiful places. A taco is passion and love. Who doesn’t love a taco?”
In my re-discovery of the Baja Fish Taco, here are some of the insights and quotes from the fish taco vendors and the local citizens who enjoy them:
“The key to a good fish taco is the batter“
As one Ensenada taco vendor states, “The key to a good taco is not the fish, but the batter- it contains most of the flavor.” A typical Baja Fish Taco batter features white flour, beer, and baking powder, but the secret to a truly delicious fish taco is the addition of crushed garlic, yellow mustard, Mexican oregano, and powdered chicken bouillon to the batter.
I added these four ingredients to my batter and vowed I would never go back to the “plain old flour and beer batter” again!
Crushed garlic, powdered chicken bouillon, mustard, and Mexican oregano
Use a firm white fish for the taco
It’s best to use a firm white fish for the taco, so it doesn’t fall apart during the oil frying. I used both cod and sea bream, but I wound up preferring the cod. Rick Bayless, author of many Mexican cookbooks, prefers using Cat Fish, but that’s not too easy to find! Cut the fish into rectangles three inches long and 1/2 inch wide.
Sea bream (on left) and cod pieces
Before cooking the fish, use tongs to dip the pieces into the batter, then fry in vegetable or canola oil for several minutes each side until golden brown. Many Mexicans fry the fish in lard in order to get a more fatty flavor, but I used oil.
Use tongs to dip the fish pieces in batter, before frying
“The fish must fit perfectly in the tortilla”
“If fish is the keynote, then the salsas are the ‘chorus girls’ that sing to the beat of every bite!”
It’s amazing how poetic and passionate the Mexican fish taco vendors are when discussing their food! A zesty red salsa is added to the fish taco, to complement the shredded cabbage and creamy white sauce. Feel free to add other toppings as well, such as pickled red onion and coriander leaves.
How to eat a taco- the second ‘kiss’ is the best one!
According to the experts on the Taco Chronicles, a taco should be eaten in three or four bites. For the first bite, you lift the taco, tilt your head and raise your two fingers: it’s like a soft kiss to the taco. You go, “Hi there! Bite and kiss!”
The second ‘kiss’ is the best one. The third kiss is the farewell- meaning it’s over!
I hope you enjoy making a Baja Fish Taco!
To make the creamy white sauce, combine the sour cream (or Mexican Crema), mayonnaise, and milk in a small bowl. Add the salt and lime juice and mix until combined. Set aside while you make the batter for the fish tacos. In a large bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt and pepper. Add the crushed garlic, Mexican oregano, yellow mustard, and powdered chicken bouillon (optional). Whisk in the beer or sparkling water until smooth (like pancake batter). Add more liquid if the mixture is too dry. Remove the skin from the fish and slice into rectangles 3 inches long and ½ inch wide. Using tongs, dip each piece of fish into the batter, thoroughly coating it. Heat about 1 ½ inches of vegetable oil in a wok or large frying pan until the temperature reaches 350 F. Using a tong, place each piece of fish into the hot oil until the edges turn golden, then flip the fish over and cook the other side (2-3 minutes total cooking time). Be careful not to burn the fish- it should be puffed and golden in color. Remove from the pan and let the fish drain on a paper towel. To make the cabbage filling, shred enough cabbage to make 1 cup. Stir in 3 Tbsps. red wine vinegar (or plain white vinegar). Sprinkle cabbage with salt and pepper to taste. To serve, warm each tortilla either in the microwave or on the stovetop, then place each fish piece inside the tortilla. Top with some of the creamy white sauce, shredded cabbage mixture, salsa, lime juice, and other toppings of your choice.Baja Fish Tacos- the second 'kiss' is the best!
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11 Comments
angiesrecipes
March 26, 2021 at 5:02 am“The key to a good fish taco is the batter“ SO TRUE! A taco in 3 bites…I need to remember that and taste the 2nd KISS next time when I make some. I prefer to fry with lard 🙂 How about the batter recipe? Just flour, beer and 4 ingredients that you mentioned above?
Fran Flint
March 26, 2021 at 5:23 amHi Angie, thanks for your comment. For the batter, I also add the salt and pepper , baking powder, and sometimes some lime juice. I’ll have to try frying with lard- I’m not sure where I can get that. My mother used to make lard by putting her pan drippings (bacon and meat, etc) into a little container next to the stove! BTW, I forgot to add the recipe to the recipe to this post- so you can now see it!
John / Kitchen Riffs
March 26, 2021 at 6:34 amWhen I make fish tacos I’ll often panfry and grill the fish, but really fish coated in batter and fried does have the best flavor. By far. Great recipe — thanks.
Fran Flint
March 26, 2021 at 7:09 amThanks John. If you’re not too concerned about calories, then batter-fried fish is the way to go!
Chef Mimi
March 26, 2021 at 8:50 amI didn’t know you were born in Southern California! One of my college roomates was from Ensenada, and I loved going home with her cause she turned me on to avocados and jicama. I don’t remember having fish tacos there, but If I’m visiting some place on the water, I’ll order them. So good, and yours look spectacular!
Karen (Back Road Journal)
March 29, 2021 at 12:02 amMy husband and I often try to guess what ingredients are in foods we eat. I don’t think I would every guess that yellow mustard and powdered chicken bouillon would be part of battered fish. Must give it a try.
Fran Flint
March 29, 2021 at 1:25 amThanks Karen for your comment. These additional ingredients really do make a difference!
Sammie @ Sweetsamsations
March 29, 2021 at 12:40 amOh my! These tacos look so perfect and delicious! Better than the ones at restaurants if I might say!
Fran Flint
March 29, 2021 at 1:27 amDare I say, even better than “Rubios Fish Tacos” restaurants here in California!
Raymund
March 31, 2021 at 8:58 amOhhh nice, that looks heavenly. I do make them once in a while at home but with grilled fish this time I will try it with your batter, looks so delicious
David Scott Allen
April 4, 2021 at 2:06 amI had my first fish taco from a street vendor in Ensenada. It was a revelation, and it was about 30 years ago! Thanks for your batter recipe – I look forward to making these sometime soon. (Of course, I will make the tortillas, too.)
Remember my post about Il Re Sol in Ensenada? Those two culinary experiences happened the same day.